The ocean has taught me excitement,
fear, happiness, pain, passion, dedication, joy, serenity, travel, patience along with many other things that has shaped me into a better person.”
“I have nearly drowned three or four times in big surf, had about five big sharks have a sniff at me, multiple broken bones, been stitched up, reef cuts, busted ear drums, snapped boards, stuck in foreign countries and I loved every minute of it.
I grew up in Cornwall and fell in love with the ocean and the rugged coastline at an early age. I started surfing at the age of four on a wooden belly board in the 70’s, advanced to the foamie then onto the big single fins.
From an early age the coastline was my playground, when it was flat we would find the biggest cliffs and jump off them into the ocean, in big storms we would go to the sheltered corners and swim and get smashed in the shore breaks.
I still get the excitement just before I jump into the ocean on a good day as I did when I was a grommet.
After suffering from serious back problems and recovering from spinal fusion, my main therapy was swimming in the ocean and taking photos.
